Date of Award
2025
Degree Type
Thesis
Degree Name
Master of Science in Oceanography
Specialization
Physical Oceanography
Department
Oceanography
First Advisor
Isaac Ginis
Abstract
Wave runup amplifies the impact of storm events on coastal beaches, accelerating erosion and threatening infrastructure. Accurate quantification of extreme runup during storms is critical for improving coastal hazard predictions and informing resilience strategies. Field measurements of wave and water levels enable empirically derived formulas to calculate runup, parameterizing setup, incident swash, and infragravity swash separately. This study predicts extreme runup across Napatree Point, a sandy barrier at Rhode Island’s westernmost point, known for its dissipative beach morphology and exposure to intense storm activity. Using the ADCIRC+SWAN hydrodynamic and wave models, mean sea level and surface wave parameters were simulated offshore of Napatree Point during the December 2022 and 2023 nor'easters. Predicted significant wave height, peak wave period, and foreshore beach slope were used to empirically calculate swash extent. Runup was calculated as the sum of numerically modeled setup and empirically modeled swash. Total water level was calculated at five transects across Napatree Point and validated against field measurements of runup elevation, dune height, and overwash occurrence from pre- and post-storm surveys. Predictions were also compared with USGS Total Water Level and Coastal Change (TWL&CC) forecasts, which empirically models both setup and swash. For the December 2022 nor'easter, observed runup elevations at the five transects were 3.82, 3.37, 3.4, 3.84, and 3.11 m, while predicted runup values were 3.07, 3.26, 3.23, 3.24, and 3.01 m, underestimating by 3.2 to 21.7%. For the December 2023 nor'easter, observed dune height elevations were 6.04, 4.81, 4.02, 3.92, and 3.22 m, with overwash observed at transects 2-5. Predicted runup values were 3.19, 3.45, 3.44, 3.46, and 3.37 m, with overwash predicted only at transect 5.
Recommended Citation
Sai, Pranav, "SEMI-EMPIRICAL PREDICTION OF WAVE RUNUP DURING NOR’EASTERS IN NEW ENGLAND" (2025). Open Access Master's Theses. Paper 2668.
https://digitalcommons.uri.edu/theses/2668