Title

Characteristics of solitary wave breaking induced by breakwaters

Authors

Stéphan T. Grilli, University of Rhode Island
Miguel A. Losada, Universidad de Cantabria
Francisco Martin, Universidad de Cantabria

Document Type

Article

Date of Original Version

1-1-1994

Abstract

Laboratory experiments are presented for the breaking of solitary waves over breakwaters. A variety of behaviors is observed, depending on both breakwater and incident wave height: For emerged breakwaters, waves may collapse over the crown, or break backward during rundown; and for submerged breakwaters, waves may break forward or backward, downstream of the breakwater. The limit of overtopping and wave transmission and reflection coefficients are experimentally determined. It is seen that transmission is large over submerged breakwaters (55-90%), and may also reach 20-40% over emerged breakwaters. Computations using a fully nonlinear potential model agree well with experimental results for the submerged breakwaters, particularly for the smaller waves (Hid < 0.4). For emerged breakwaters, computations correctly predict the limit of overtopping, and the backward collapsing during rundown. © ASCE.

Publication Title, e.g., Journal

Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering

Volume

120

Issue

1

Citation/Publisher Attribution

Grilli, Stéphan T., Miguel A. Losada, and Francisco Martin. "Characteristics of solitary wave breaking induced by breakwaters." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 120, 1 (1994): 74-92. doi: 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1994)120:1(74).