Title

Modeling of wave shoaling in a 2D-NWT using a spilling breaker model

Authors

S. Guignard, University of Rhode Island
S. T. Grilli, University of Rhode Island

Document Type

Conference Proceeding

Date of Original Version

1-1-2001

Abstract

A 2D fully nonlinear NWT modeling wave propagation over arbitrary bottom topography is extended by the addition of a spilling breaker model, in which an absorbing surface pressure is specified over breaking wave crest areas. The instantaneous power dissipated for each breaking wave by the absorbing pressure is specified proportional to the dissipation in an inverted hydraulic jump of identical characteristics. These are obtained by applying a wave tracking algorithm to each calculated free surface. A maximum surface slope breaking criteria is used to identify breaking waves within the incident wave train. Computations for a periodic wave shoaling and breaking over a plane slope are compared to laboratory experiments. The agreement is quite good, although more work remains to be done in refining the breaker model parameter.

Publication Title, e.g., Journal

Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference

Volume

3

Citation/Publisher Attribution

Guignard, S., and S. T. Grilli. "Modeling of wave shoaling in a 2D-NWT using a spilling breaker model." Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference 3, (2001): 116-123. https://digitalcommons.uri.edu/oce_facpubs/189