Implementation and validation of a breaker model in a fully nonlinear wave propagation model
Date of Original Version
A spilling breaker model is implemented in a two-dimensional fully nonlinear coastal wave propagation model. A maximum surface slope breaking criterion is used to identify breaking waves within the incident wave train. Energy dissipation is achieved by specifying an absorbing surface pressure over breaking wave crest areas. The pressure is proportional to the normal particle velocity on the free surface. The instantaneous power dissipated in each breaking wave is specified proportional to the dissipation in a hydraulic jump of identical characteristics. Computations for a periodic wave shoaling and breaking over a plane slope are compared to laboratory experiments. The agreement is quite good, although more work remains to be done in refining the breaker model parameters.
Proceedings of the International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis
Guignard, Stéphan N., and Stéphan T. Grilli. "Implementation and validation of a breaker model in a fully nonlinear wave propagation model." Proceedings of the International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis 2, (2001): 1012-1021. doi:10.1061/40604(273)103.