Shoaling of periodic waves over barred-beaches in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank
Date of Original Version
A numerical wave tank based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory is used to calculate changes in local properties of periodic waves shoaling over barred-beaches (wave height, celerity, front-to-back asymmetry). Results show that strongly nonlinear wave decomposition phenomena occur in a modulation region beyond the bars. These are analyzed in detail and discussed in the paper.
International Journal of Offshore and Polar Engineering
Grilli, Stéphan T., and Juan Horrillo. "Shoaling of periodic waves over barred-beaches in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank." International Journal of Offshore and Polar Engineering 9, 4 (1999): 257-263. https://digitalcommons.uri.edu/oce_facpubs/195