South American Backstrap Loom: Its Potential, Limitation and Application for Contemporary Handweaving

Backstrap-loom-weaving appeals to the contemporary artist. Simple in equipment, highly flexible in use, it offers possibilities for rendering designs that are only limited to the ingenuity of the artist . The loom, currently used in various forms by primitive people, was the major weaving tool of the pre-Columbian Peruvians, who excelled in the textile arts and are praised for their extreme skills, and wide range of practiced techniques. Research, however, indicated that the loom might not permit all varieties of weave structures and weaving


Typ.es of South American Backstrap Looms
The Even after discounting any virtuosity of the weaver this would point to a great potential or flexibility of the backstrap loom. This loom is defined as a simple loom "on which warp tension is maintained between the body of the weaver and a stationary object. 114 In opposition to these statements are the observations of handweaver Harriet Tidball who questions the wide range of loom techniques. After pointing out that certain yarn interlacements were not developed or were introduced and abandoned after a short time, she implies that the loom, and in particular the absence of the reed, might have been a limiting factor.5 The purpose of this research is (1) to study the use, development of the Peruvian backstrap loom and its woven textiles through literary references and museum collections, The loom parts fall into three categories, each fulfilling a basic function of the weaving process: (1) to hold the warp ends parallel and taut, (2) to create a shed, or open angle between two planes of selected warp yarns through which the weft is inserted, (3) to push the inserted weft close to the already woven web. Appendix A brings general information on the backstrap looms. Figure 1 shows the geographical distribution of the looms classified by heddle types. Figure 2 illustrates the range of loom types which use a backstrap as a tension device. Figure 3 lists the 4 5 effect of the various warp arrangements on the finished woven product. Figure 4 indicates the limitations which the shedding devices place on the weaving techniques. Figure 5 lists the various string heddle types which were and are used today with these looms.
Looms with a backstrap seem to be indigenous to primitive people all over the world. Generally the loom is simple, easy to use and fast to assemble and disassemble.
The most common form is the two-stick or two-bar loom. If one of the sticks is omitted, as in the Ainu loom where long unspun elm fibers are tied to a hook, then a warp spreader or any other device which will spread the warp has to be introduced.  Figure 6 shows the distribution of the backstrap loom in South America and Figure 7 illustrates the various types with the warp set-up and heddle lacing. Some tribes weave wide and narrow webs, others only arm and leg bands.
The Jivaro are known to weave fine cloth and the Piro only coarse cloth.
The backstrap loom is not exclusively used. The other looms are the horizontal ground loom and the European four harness loom which had been introduced by the Spaniards.
And the Aymaras even practice a division of labor which is based on the loom type: the woman uses the backstrap loom, and the man the four harness floor loom. 10 The loom types have one common characteristic: they produce weavings with four finished selvages based on a continuous warp set-up for a ring warp or for double or single warp length. There are variations in the string heddles, and in the fixed objects to which the loom is fastened. The weaving starts at the loom bar closest to the weaver and proceeds away from the weaver for about one to two inches. Then the loom is turned around, and the already woven web will function as a warp spreader. The weaving begins again and forms a new selvage at the former warp 9 bar which is now the new cloth bar. The weaving will proceed until both woven webs meet. Thereafter the shed opening becomes smaller and smaller; the thick shed rod, and the heavy sword have to be substituted with narrower tools.
And at the join or end of the weaving, the weft is inserted with a long needle.  3. Using a high number of string heddle rods efficiently .
The potentials are based on material requirements (1, 2, 3) , structure of the loom (4,5,6), and the absence of the reed (7,8,9), while the limitations derive mainly from t he absence of the reed (1, 2  Figure 9). With the absence of ceramic technology, and no evidence of irrigation or any luxury trade, the first textile manufacture started.
Cotton and bast fibers were used, generally in two ply yarns. The materials from the excavation at Huaca Prieta proved that twining was the major practiced technique, with weaving playing a minor role. Since spindles and loom parts were not found among the finds, Junius B. Bird assumes that a frame loom must have been used. 1 9 The Initial Period, marked by the introduction of the heddle loom and pottery, saw the development of regional cultures. These had: ••• the distributive systems, settlement types, political systems, social stratifications, and occupational ~8ecialization characteristic of civilization.
In the Early Horizon, about 900 B.C., a new religious cult appeared. Named after the temple in Chavin de Huantar in the central highlands, it spread fast, and within 100 years influenced the north and south coasts. The Chavin style, using visual metaphors, is mainly manifested in architecture and stone carving. Characteristics include: ••• an intricate interweaving of mouth, eyes, snakes, geometric figures in stylized relationships to a c2~tral human deity, animal or deity figure.
At that time metallurgy appeared and wool was used in coastal cities, indicating the existence of trade and commerce between the highlandsand the coas tal regions.

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The various cultures found a common economical and technological base, which remained even after the individual regions broke free and began to develop strong regional styles.  The earliest textiles were of cotton and bast, rather than of cotton and wool. Figure 11 shows the yarn distribu-      England, could not be located recently5 1 ( s ee Figure 24).

IV. METHODS
In the pursuit of the objectives of this study the following was undertaken: Regarding evolutionary changes in the shape of the loom parts to improve their function in the weaving process, the shape of the loom bar changed from broken off cane rods or round sticks to flat notched wooden slats in modern looms which secure the heading cord in a simple manner ( Figure 26).
In the case of a long warp where the winding up of the woven web is important, the cloth bar and the auxiliary bar can be combined to a wooden bar with a center cut-out ( Figure 19).
Regarding evolutionary changes in the heddle system to allow for weaving of double cloth and twill, the evidence has to come from completely undisturbed intact looms with the specific textile still on the loom since the weaves can be woven by various methods. This requirement is hard to Contemporary Chota Loom, Peru    There is no evidence available that the Peruvian loom used twin heddles, or that the string heddle rods were changed into harness frames and treadles, which Roth recognizes as the ultimate steps in the developments of a simple loom.59 In addition the Peruvian loom did not adopt a flat shed rod which Roth labels as improvement over the round stick. 60 The researcher disagrees with Roth since the clearing action of the round stick is better for a warp-faced fabric than a flat stick. Therefore, the shape of the shed rod should be considered as a solution to a particular problem and not a developmental stage.      grouped yarns into single yarns as in the Chota loom ( Figure   37).   Source: Courtesy of American Museum of Natural History. After the textile is taken from the loom, the onepick heading .cord can easily be removed without a trace, two-pick and three-pick heading cords will remain in the textile or leave exposed warp loops.

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Generally        Warping techniques Each horizontal line of color change is represented by a peg on the warping board: 1 . One of the two interlocked yarns is placed around the peg. The peg only serves as a measure to have the interlocking done at equal lengths.           By author.
I. Plain gauze, the same two warp yarns are crossed.
III . Plain gauze with paired warps.
(2) Alternate heddle rod and shed rod for plain gauze .         The reproduction is seen in Figure 88.   There must be a second heddle rod in lease . string one which also agrees with Tidball ' s description in order to weave patterned double cloth as follows :     Only a perfect intact specimen would provide an answer.    The triple cloth is incomplete, weft areas between design unit s are not woven ( Figure 109).
In summary there seemed to have been no more than four .major warp divisions used, excluding all pattern sheds . This is noted by Eisleb for the collection in the Museum fuer